UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on October 2, 2009. As part of the acknowledgment, UNESCO insisted that Indonesia preserve their heritage.[1]
[caption id="attachment_55" align="alignnone" width="300"]
Batik Cirebon is Pusat Grosir Batik Trusmi[/caption]
Etymology
Although the word's origin is Javanese, its etymology may be either from the Javanese
amba ('to write') and
titik ('dot' or 'point'), or constructed from a hypothetical Proto-Austronesian root
*beCík, meaning 'to tattoo' from the use of a needle in the process. The word is first recorded in English in the Encyclopædia Britannica of 1880, in which it is spelled
battik. It is attested in the Indonesian Archipelago during the Dutch colonial period in various forms:
mbatek,
mbatik,
batek and
batik.
[2][3][4]
Culture
In one form or another, batik has worldwide popularity.
Batik or fabrics with the traditional batik patterns are found in (particularly) Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, China, Azerbaijan, India, Sri Lanka,Egypt, Nigeria, Senegal, and Singapore.
[citation needed] Now, not only is
batik used as a material to clothe the human body, its uses also include furnishing fabrics, heavy canvas wall hangings, tablecloths and household accessories. Batik techniques are used by famous artists to create batik paintings, which grace many homes and offices.
Indonesia
The Javanese aristocrats R.A. Kartini in
kebaya and her husband. Her skirt is of
batik, with the parang pattern, which was for aristocrats. Her husband is wearing a blangkon
Depending on the quality of the art work, craftsmanship, and fabric quality, batik can be priced from several dollars (for fake poor quality batik) to several thousand dollars (for the finest
batik tulis halus which probably took several months to make).
Batik tulis has both sides of the cloth ornamented.
In Indonesia, traditionally,
batik was sold in 2.25-metre lengths used for
kain panjang or sarong for kebaya dress. It can also be worn by wrapping it around the body, or made into a hat known as blangkon. Infants are carried in batik slings decorated with symbols designed to bring the child luck. Certain batik designs are reserved for brides and bridegrooms, as well as their families. The dead are shrouded in funerary batik.
[1] Other designs are reserved for the Sultan and his family or their attendants. A person's rank could be determined by the pattern of the batik he or she wore.
For special occasions,
batik was formerly decorated with gold leaf or dust. This cloth is known as
prada (a Javanese word for gold) cloth. Gold decorated cloth is still made today; however, gold paint has replaced gold dust and leaf.
Batik garments play a central role in certain rituals, such as the ceremonial casting of royal batik into a volcano. In the Javanese naloni mitoni "first pregnancy" ceremony, the mother-to-be is wrapped in seven layers of batik, wishing her good things. Batik is also prominent in the tedak siten ceremony when a child touches the earth for the first time. Batik is also part of the labuhan ceremony when people gather at a beach to throw their problems away into the sea.
[9]
The wide diversity of patterns reflects a variety of influences, ranging from indigenous designs, Arabic calligraphy, European bouquets and Chinese phoenixes to Japanese cherry blossoms and Indian or Persian peacocks.[1]
Contemporary batik, while owing much to the past, is markedly different from the more traditional and formal styles. For example, the artist may use etching, discharge dyeing, stencils, different tools for waxing and dyeing, or wax recipes with different resist values. They may work with silk, cotton, wool, leather, paper, or even wood and ceramics.
Popularity
Garuda Indonesia flight attendant uniform in kebaya and batik parang gondosuli motif. Designed in collaboration with Obin, 2010
In Indonesia,
batik popularity has had its ebbs and flows. Historically, it was essential for ceremonial costumes and it was worn as part of a kebaya dress, which was commonly worn every day. According to Professor Michael Hitchcock of the University of Chichester (UK), batik "has a strong political dimension. The batik shirt was invented as a formal non-Western shirt for men in Indonesia in the 1960s, not long after the country's birth.
[10] It waned from the 1960s onwards, because more and more people chose western clothes as fashionable, decimating the batik industry.
However,
batik clothing has revived somewhat in the turn of 21st century, due to the effort of Indonesian fashion designers to innovate batik by incorporating new colors, fabrics, and patterns.
Batik is a fashion item for many young people in Indonesia, such as a shirt, dress, or scarf for casual wear. Kebaya is regarded as a formal attire for women. It is also acceptable for men to wear
batik in the office or as a replacement for jacket-and-tie at certain receptions. After the UNESCO recognition for Indonesian batik as intangible world heritage on October 2, 2009, Indonesian administration has asked Indonesians to wear
batik on Friday, and wearing batik every Friday is encouraged in all government offices and private companies ever since.
[11] Batik had helped improve the small business local economy,
batik sales in Indonesia had reached Rp 3.9 trillion (US$436.8 million) in 2010, an increase from Rp 2.5 trillion in 2006. The value of batik exports, meanwhile, increased from $14.3 million in 2006 to $22.3 million in 2010.
[12]
The existence and use of batik was already recorded in the 12th century and the textile has since become a strong source of identity for Indonesians,
[13] and to lesser extent Malaysia and Singapore.
Batik is featured in their national airlines uniform, the flight attendants of Singaporean, Garuda Indonesia and Malaysian national airlines wear batik prints in their uniform. Although the uniforms are actually not real batik because the production is not using the traditional way but using mass produced techniques. The female uniform of Garuda Indonesia flight attendants is more authentic modern interpretations of kartini style kebaya and batik
parang gondosuli motif, which also incorporate garuda's wing motif and small dots represent jasmine.
[14] The batik motif symbolizes the ‘Fragrant Ray of Life’ and endows the wearer with elegance.
[15]
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